April 16th, 2015 is right around the corner and the old standard storage tank water heater is getting a makeover. I thought it would be good to go over a few things as this new change could limit what’s available in water heaters and increase the cost.
Per the NAECA (National Appliance Energy Conservation Act) as of April 16th, 2015, the vessel storing and maintaining gallons of hot water day and night with its constant glow of the pilot at the ready, will no longer meet the new energy standards. Water heaters built thereafter will have new energy requirements. This goes for gas, propane, oil, and electric water heaters. This win for conserving energy and reducing emissions is not without growing pains.
According to the US Department of Energy, new mandatory standards “will result in approximately $63 billion in energy bill savings for products shipped from 2015-2044. The standard will avoid about 172.5 million metric tons of carbon dioxide emissions, equivalent to the annual greenhouse gas emissions of about 33.8 million automobiles.” http://www1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/appliance_standards/product.aspx/productid/27
Improving energy conservation is better for the environment, and benefits all of us in the long run. And a more efficient use of energy can reduce utility costs for the average home owner. All the ways that future water heaters will change are still unknown, but manufacturers say there are some things we should be aware of as the deadline approaches. After April 16th only water heaters that meet the new NAECA Standard will be manufactured. This does not mean that non-conforming water heaters cannot be sold or installed, but once the old stock is gone, it’s gone. After the deadline, if you want a water heater that meets the new standards you should specify this to ensure you don’t receive one of the older models.
Though these water heaters are going to improve efficiency, it won’t come without a price. Some models will no longer be built so there will be fewer options when it comes to size and specific products. As an example, a standard 50 gallon gas water heater from one manufacturer will increase in diameter as much as two inches. Not a big deal where there is plenty of clearance, but we’ve run into plenty of water heater installations where there isn’t even half an inch to play with. That access through a tight opening, that spot squeezed between the furnace and the garage wall, the enclosure with zero clearance to three sides of the tank, all could make a minor increase in size dramatically effect whether a replacement water heater would fit or need to be completely relocated.
Another added cost will come from manufacturing to the new standards. We may see various water heaters equipped with additional energy saving technology; anything from more insulation to an electronic ignition system that replaces a conventional standing pilot on gas models. Gas water heaters over 55 gallons will need to incorporate condensing technology to meet the new requirements. For electric water heaters over 55 gallons it may mean a heat pump water heater to gain the required EF (Energy Factor) rating. One manufacturer we work with has told us to expect these changes to increase production costs from 10% to 30%.
Manufacturers are doing their best to produce products that can directly replace the old models and still meet the new standards. However, some water heaters will not be a standard “drop-in” replacement and will need more work to install than we are used to.
What should you do to prepare for these changes in April 16th, 2015?
• If you have a tank located in a tight space, and that size tank is no longer available, you will probably need to downsize the tank or relocate the water heater. If you have an older water heater you might want to replace it now with a model of the same size and capacity, while they’re still available. This would buy you time before replacing the tank with one that meets the new requirements. Hopefully by then there will be a product that meets the new efficiency standards, as well as your capacity and space requirements.
• Water heaters over 55 gallons that meet the new standards will probably cost more than an older model of the same size; another reason to consider a replacement while the product is still available. Know that there may be ways to get the hot water you need with a smaller tank. A professional plumber would be worth consulting before an emergency replacement.
• When ordering a water heater replacement, one way to help keep costs down is to have as much information on your water heater as possible. Typically the things that will help you get the right water heater the first time are: width and height of tank, any access restrictions, height of water connections coming out of the wall, type of venting (does it go through the side wall, is it plastic or metal), brand & model #, gallons, and BTU’s (for gas or propane).
• Water heaters are becoming more technically advanced. You may have installed one in the past, but the new changes may require different installation for safe and proper operation.
Although there are some concerns with meeting the new mandatory energy standards, increasing efficiency and reducing emissions is the future for energy consumption. Ultimately, it will mean a cleaner environment, and will reduce the operating costs of our appliances.
When it comes to your water heater, regardless of these upcoming changes, the best thing you can do is be prepared and proactive. Know the age of your water heater and how to shut it down in an emergency. Plan to replace a water heater on your terms, rather than letting it become an out of service and/or property damaging problem.
Bruce Davis Jr.
General Manager
Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
Bruce Davis Jr. is a second generation plumber and HVAC technician. He earned his Commercial Plumbing License and later became N.A.T.E. Certified and E.P.A. Refrigerant Certified for HVAC service and repair for commercial and residential HVAC appliances. Bruce has years of experience as an HVAC Technician, Boiler Technician, and Plumber. He is now General Manager for the company he has been with his entire career and oversees the Plumbing, Heating, and Air Conditioning business for Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
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Plumbing seems simple enough, but it can often be a mystery to the inexperienced consumer. I’ve compiled a short list of common myths, legends, and sage advice. Hopefully they can assist you the next time you run into a plumbing problem, or help you avoid one altogether.
Low water pressure is not really low water pressure (usually): The more the better right? Low water pressure is a common complaint plumbers hear, especially when a pressure reducing valve is being recommended. So what kind of crazy person wants less pressure?! The fact is, most fixtures in your home, including your water heater, are rated for 80 psi (pounds per square inch) as the normal working pressure. Anything greater than that wears on your plumbing system and risks possible early failure of piping and components. So why is it that your faucet or shower doesn’t feel like there is enough pressure? Often (not always) the perception of low water pressure is really a restriction in volume. Imagine two extremes 1) A hose with a tiny pin-hole, with 200 psi…. or 2) a 2” pipe wide open at only 20 psi. Which one would “feel” like more “pressure”? Scenario Two. More water tends to feel “wetter” and the misperception is that volume equals pressure. Low volume can feel like less pressure and be a symptom of any one of a number of different issues; a restriction in the piping, aging galvanized piping, undersized portions of the system, or even certain failed components that are now restricting flow.
Flushable applies to toilet paper only. Ah the treasures that plumbers pull from within the cavernous depths of a clogged sewer. Seriously, these are tales best left untold, unless it is your drain that is clogged. A good drain technician can usually identify a drain clogging culprit. High on the list of the “Most Unwanted” are “flushable” products. These products, ranging from disposable diapers to cat litter, are not what your plumbing drains were designed for. They can clog and cause expensive backups and/or repair. The list of non-flushable “flushables” is extensive. The best rule of thumb; if it isn’t toilet paper, don’t flush it!
Frost free hose bibs are not worry free. When installed correctly, frost free hose bibs are designed to shut off up to 12” inside the wall and drain the excess water to prevent freeze breaks in lower temperatures. So why do plumbers commonly replace frost free hose bibs due to freeze breaks? The hose was never detached from the spigot. For this design to work the water must be able to drain away from where it shuts off within the wall to the outside spigot. With the hose attached it simply cannot accomplish this.
Your toilet doesn’t need to be held down by a brick. Home remedies placed in toilet tanks to reduce the amount of water used per flush, like bricks and bottles, are not a good idea. Sure, they can save water, but they can also diminish the quality of flush needed to evacuate the toilet properly. Instead of risking a clogged toilet or drain, it’s better to invest in a quality low flushing toilet. There are a number of low flush toilets that just don’t hold up performance-wise. But there are toilets available that flush as low as 1.28GPF (gallons per flush) without sacrificing performance. You will typically find these toilets sold by a plumbing shop that stands behind their work for at least a year.
Know thy house. It may seem like a simple thing, but in a time of emergency, knowing where and how to shut your water and gas off is critical to minimizing water damage. We’re often asked to instruct a home owner over the phone where to turn their water off, so we created a free program to specifically show home owners how and where to shut off their water and gas before an emergency. It’s called ID For Free.
The garbage disposer’s secret hand shake. A garbage disposal on a kitchen sink can be overloaded and the wrong items can damage or cause a clog. The general rule of thumb is to recycle and compost what you can, and never put anything you wouldn’t eat down the garbage disposer. For specific guidelines you can also refer to the user manual. But what if the garbage disposal doesn’t work and you want to try something on your own before calling a plumber? Some disposals will come with a hexagon wrench that, (turn the power off first) can be inserted underneath in the center of the disposal to manually work the motor to break free. If the unit has overheated it can be reset by pressing the reset button located underneath the unit once it has cooled down.
Clogs & Chemicals. When there is a clog, the temptation is to immediately dump chemicals down the drain, but using drain chemicals can be risky. You never know what else is in that drain that the chemical may react with. Always wear proper safety gear and eye protection, and follow the safety instructions included with the product. Take a few moments to read about your drain chemical. Some chemicals won’t work with certain types of clogs and others may damage fixtures and piping. Chemicals should not be used on a garbage disposer.
As a rule it is never recommended to dump a chemical into a drain without some sort of drainage. Imagine a complete stoppage with absolutely no flow. Once there is a chemical in the mix, now the problem has changed from just a clogged drain, to a clogged drain with a hazardous chemical present. Containment will also be an issue when accessing piping to clear the drain. The other rule of thumb is that chemicals don’t work on toilets or main sewer lines (3” and up). If your house or toilet is backing up, DIY remedies typically won’t make a dent. At this point it is time to call in the professionals.
Plumbing, good or bad, is a part of daily life. If you encounter a problem, these seven bits of wisdom could help you navigate the waters. Read them, share them, and commit them to memory. If you find that you’re in over your head, don’t be afraid to call a plumber. We’re here to help!
Bruce Davis Jr.
General Manager
Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
Bruce Davis Jr. is a second generation plumber and HVAC technician. He earned his Commercial Plumbing License and later became N.A.T.E. Certified and E.P.A. Refrigerant Certified for HVAC service and repair for commercial and residential HVAC appliances. Bruce has years of experience as an HVAC Technician, Boiler Technician, and Plumber. He is now General Manager for the company he has been with his entire career and oversees the Plumbing, Heating, and Air Conditioning business for Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
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Here in the Pacific NW, it used to be that weather cold enough to cause the pipes to freeze in our homes and businesses was rare. Now; not so much.
Now, it seems that every winter we are having those strong ‘cold fronts’ that hit us pretty regularly, and when they hit, they hit a bit harder, colder and longer. Without going through a bunch of detailed statistics, if you look closely at the numbers they seem to bear that out.
In addition to stronger and colder spells hitting us in the winters, we have also been hit with a couple of new ‘urban legends’ about ‘new’ piping that will freeze without breaking; the implication being that ‘we don’t have to worry about the pipes freezing so much now; they’ll be okay”. We may have even seen or heard of some situation where indeed, the pipes froze, the water wouldn’t flow for a couple of days, and when it warmed up the pipes thawed out and ‘no leaks’! What’s the deal?
Well it is true that in the last 10 to 15 years a ‘new’ water pipe material has come into the marketplace in North America that has gained a reputation for being somewhat resistant to freezing and it’s called ‘PEX” pipe. PEX is short for ‘cross-linked’ (x) ‘poly-ethylene’ (PE) pipe.
Cross-linked polyethylene (‘PEX’) piping is indeed a great product. In my opinion it’s a big improvement in piping materials over galvanized steel pipe, copper pipe and even PVC pipe for many reasons, not the least of which is that compared to those other piping materials, it is extremely ‘clean’ in regard to how much it will contaminate the water that it’s moving and holding. PEX piping is also somewhat flexible, like a tubing rather than a rigid pipe, and some brands of PEX have a product ‘memory’ that will allow the product to be bent, kinked, or expanded (even by freezing), and then if re-heated the ‘memory’ will restore the original shape.
Examples of galvanized, copper and PEX pipes
But here is the catch; no PEX pipe can be expanded and shrunk by freezing and thawing time after time after time indefinitely; at some point all PEX piping will lose its ‘elasticity’ and it could fail/break and spring a leak. Different brands will have different tolerances; but none of them will put up with that kind of activity without springing a leak at some point, and it’s foolish (and against all Plumbing Codes) to install PEX piping in a freeze zone, unprotected.
The ‘protection’ needed for PEX pipe is just like all other piping materials. The first and best protection against freezing is to always run the pipes in conditioned spaces that will be kept above freezing, like inside a wall that has a least one side of it in a heated living space. If that’s not practical or possible, then the pipe needs to be insulated and in some cases wrapped with ‘heat-tape’ and then insulated; it depends on the situation.
If ‘heat-tape’ is needed, our company always recommends a commercial grade product that is shielded and encased in a metallic sheath, so that the outer metallic sheath can be grounded properly. That way, if there were ever a short circuit, the breaker would ‘trip’ and the circuit would be opened (shut-off), preventing fires. Many, many fires are started every winter by cheap, un-grounded heat-tape over-heated and/or short circuiting.
Examples of grounded vs non-grounded heat-tape.
Over time, freezing and thawing may cause pipes to leak, even if you have the ‘new’ PEX piping in your home, condo or town-house. Don’t let a sudden cold snap take you and your plumbing by surprise. Be aware of your plumbing’s condition, and take whatever precautions are necessary for your situation…because there is nothing more unforgiving than water.
Bruce Davis Sr.
Licensed Journeyman Plumber
Licensed Electrician, HVAC/R
Electrical Administrator, HVAC/R
Certified WA State C.E.U. Instructor
Bruce Sr is President of Day and Nite Plumbing and Heating, a 60-year old family owned and operated plumbing and heating business in Lynnwood, Washington.
Bruce can be contacted at: Email: Bruce@dayandnite.net
Day and Nite Plumbing and Heating Inc.
16614 13th Ave. W.
Lynnwood, WA 98037
800-972-7000
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Tags: Artic front, Cross-linked polyethylene, Cross-linked polyethylene pipe, Cross-linked polyethylene tubing, day and nite, emergency plumbing, freeze, frozen pipes, home safety, home winterizing, P.E.X., P.E.X. pipe, PEX, PEX pipe, plumbing, plumbing and heating, water damage, winterizing
Ductless Heat Pumps (aka Ductless Mini-Split Systems) have become the new efficient way to heat a home, especially for homeowners with all-electric homes, who rely on baseboards or electric wall heaters for home heating. The reports of efficiency and quiet operation have generated so much interest with homeowners and businesses, we’re often approached by folks who wouldn’t necessarily need a Ductless Heat Pump System.
Since they’re relatively new to our market, the level of consumer knowledge about Ductless Heat Pumps is limited when compared to other traditional heating systems like gas furnaces or boilers. As a result, we get many questions from customers trying to determine if this type of system would be a good solution for their home. These questions range from basic application, to how they operate.
So let’s start with the basics. What is a heat pump? A heat pump works just like an air conditioner. In cooling mode, (yes, they provide cooling too) a heat pump moves heat from inside your home to the outside. Unlike an air conditioning unit, a heat pump can be used to heat your home, and do it efficiently. A ductless heat pump does this by reversing the process it uses to provide air conditioning to your home. It collects heat that exists naturally in the ambient air outside and delivers it into the home. The heat that is being “pumped” out for cooling, or in for heating the home, travels through pipes containing refrigerant.
There are several types of heat pumps, including Ground Source heat pumps, also referred to as a Geothermal heat pumps. Again, heat pumps and air conditioners just move heat from one place to another. In the case of a ground source heat pump, it simply gathers heat from the ground instead of the air.
What we’ll be talking about are Ductless “Air to Air” Heat Pumps. In other words, heat pumps that move heat from one air source to another air source to heat or cool a home without the use of any ducting.
A Ductless Heat Pump provides heat or air conditioning simply by delivering it to cassettes or wall units that are mounted within the home. These wall units use a blower to blow air across the refrigerant coil concealed within the cassette, and then directly into the living space. To think of it another way, a conventional heat pump on a furnace does the same thing, except it transfers heat at a coil located in the ductwork at the furnace or air handler. The blower from the furnace turns on to blow air across the coil to transfer heat that is then distributed throughout the home via the ducting.
If you already have good ducting in your home, a ductless heat pump would not typically be the best solution. For a ducted system, one outdoor unit can provide a very cost effective way to heat and cool your home with a whole house heat pump. Some of the newer generation heat pumps like Bryant for example, are so efficient, they’re worth considering before purchasing a ductless system.
When ducting doesn’t exist, Ductless Mini Split Systems, or Ductless Heat Pumps, are a very efficient way to heat your home. The beauty of these systems is, just like the name implies, no ducts are needed. And since they run completely on electricity, no other fuel source is needed either. These two features have allowed homeowners stuck with expensive electric baseboards or electric wall heaters as the main source of heat, a way to cut energy costs and live more comfortably, with affordable heat in the winter and cooling for the hot summer days.
As I mentioned, in a Ductless system, the unit that sits outside the home can provide heat or cooling to multiple indoor units called “cassettes”. Each cassette is controlled by its own thermostat, usually a remote control with a wall mount. The advantage of each indoor unit having its own remote is the ability to provide true “zoning”, so you are able to heat one room without heating the whole house. The coils that distribute heat or cooling within the living space range from a recessed panel in the ceiling to a floor mounted wall heater. The most common unit is a rectangular cassette that mounts on a wall towards the ceiling.
The outside unit is connected to the indoor unit(s) through pipes that transport the refrigeration. This is called a line set. A common concern, especially among condo owners, is the aesthetics of the line set when surface mounted to the structure. When getting estimates, it’s important that the routing of the line set is addressed, especially if concealment is an issue. How well the unit works will often amount to the quality of the installation, proper placement, sizing of the unit, and quality of the product.
The best way to determine if a Ductless Heat Pump is the right solution for your home is to get a couple of free estimates from reputable HVAC companies in your area. This is what you should expect from a good professional consultant. They will address how many cassettes are needed to deliver heat throughout a space or multiple spaces. They will do a heat loss and heat gain analysis. And they’ll provide data that will help compare energy usage with the energy source you are currently using.
Bottom line, if you have an all-electric house, and you heat with baseboards or wall heaters, you could substantially cut your heating costs! Happy Heating…and Cooling!
Bruce Davis Jr.
General Manager
Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
Bruce Davis Jr. is a second generation plumber and HVAC technician. He earned his Commercial Plumbing License and later became N.A.T.E. Certified and E.P.A. Refrigerant Certified for HVAC service and repair for commercial and residential HVAC appliances. Bruce has years of experience as an HVAC Technician, Boiler Technician, and Plumber. He is now General Manager for the company he has been with his entire career and oversees the Plumbing, Heating, and Air Conditioning business for Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
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Tankless Water Heaters – 4 Myths
Tankless water heaters are all the rage. They appeal to everyone, from the home hunter, to the conservationist, to the comfort and convenience minded. And it’s no wonder. You get better efficiency, and endless hot water, with a unit that doesn’t occupy much more space than a large suitcase.
These features and benefits are what most people think about when they consider exchanging their storage type water heater for a tankless. No-brainer, right? After years of tankless water heater installs, we’ve found that some consumers have expectations, realistic or otherwise, that should be addressed before deciding to go tankless.
Myth #1-These things are “plug & play.” You can pretty much hook up to whatever is there from your old water heater.
Tankless Water Heaters are not a simple “swap out”. Most conventional gas water heaters were not installed with a tankless retrofit in mind. In fact, your home’s gas piping, gas meter, and gas line to the meter may not be sized appropriately to handle the high gas load that will be replacing the conventional storage gas water heater. Most conventional natural-draft water heaters vent exhaust completely different than any tankless water heater, and though they are a fuel burning appliance, they do need power to operate. When a homeowner is unhappy with a tankless water heater, it usually concerns the issues above, and managing expectations about how their tankless water heater should perform. Not all tankless water heaters are the same. An improperly installed unit may not only under perform, but be a safety hazard as well.
Myth #2 -Tankless Water Heaters Deliver Hot Water Faster. That’s why they are sometimes called “Instant Hot Water Heaters.”
Somehow “Instant” has replaced the word “Tankless” in the minds of many consumers. The fact is, when a tankless is taking the place of a conventional water heater in its existing location, it will not deliver hot water to your faucet any faster. If it took a long time before, it will still take a long time to get there unless that issue was specifically addressed. Some brands will only fire up when they sense flow. In this case there can be an additional few seconds of wait time before hot water reaches a faucet. In some cases a tankless water heater is located in a completely different location than the old water heater. The distance from the water heater to the faucet will determine the time it takes for hot water to reach the faucet. If water does take a long time to get to a faucet, the real solution is to add a circulation system to your water’s heat source. Luckily, some tankless models are designed so that a circulation system can be added without reconfiguring piping or adding an additional buffer tank.
Myth #3 – All Tankless water heaters are pretty much the same.
Throughout the years, tankless water heaters have become more reliable, cost effective, and in some cases an easier installation. Some brands are better than others for certain applications. There are now models that offer more firepower, while keeping equipment and installation costs down. Other brands are less reliable and have very poor product support. Some will require more extensive maintenance than others, which should be considered when evaluating the cost of ownership. From my experience, no matter the quality of the unit, if the quality of installation is poor you will always get poor performance. So how do you find out which brands are best? A great resource is a Plumbing/HVAC company that has a good reputation and stands behind their work. Most likely, they’ll want to keep their customers happy with good service and superior products. The brands a company like this uses are worth considering.
Myth #4 – Replacing a water heater with a tankless water heater doesn’t need to be permitted and inspected.
I cannot speak for all jurisdictions, but here in the Puget Sound area they do. If you’re not sure it’s required, call up your local permitting office and ask them. They may require a mechanical permit, gas piping permit, and electrical permit depending on the local jurisdiction and what was required to install the new appliance. Remember, you are replacing a 40,000 BTU tank with something that uses up to 199,999 Btu’s of gas. It produces exhaust and carbon monoxide and vents completely different. For your safety and health it is best to follow the local authority’s requirements for permit and inspection.
Tankless water heaters are all the rage, and for good reason. They offer efficient, comfortable, and continual hot water for home or business. Before you step up to tankless, make sure you understand the difference between fact and fiction. Seek out a reputable Plumbing/HVAC company. Most offer free estimates by a knowledgeable staff member who will address any concern you may have, help you chose the correct size and brand for your application, and give you a realistic expectation when it comes to the performance of a tankless water heater. With proper guidance you can make a well-informed decision that will hopefully meet your needs… and your expectations. Enjoy!
Bruce Davis Jr.
General Manager
Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
Bruce Davis Jr. is a second generation plumber and HVAC technician. He earned his Commercial Plumbing License and later became N.A.T.E. Certified and E.P.A. Refrigerant Certified for HVAC service and repair for commercial and residential HVAC appliances. Bruce has years of experience as an HVAC Technician, Boiler Technician, and Plumber. He is now General Manager for the company he has been with his entire career and oversees the Plumbing, Heating, and Air Conditioning business for Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
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You have work…school…guests coming over… and everyone in the family needs hot water now. Unfortunately, life as you know it has just been interrupted by a leaking water heater. The inconvenience is bad enough, but when you factor in the possibility of water damage, it can become catastrophic.
One of the first things I ask my water heater customers to do, is to imagine the water heater leaking in the space it is in right now. Often times, they assume there’s nothing to be concerned about because it’s located in in the garage or in a pan or in its own closet. Sure, water heater placement is important, but unless certain precautions are taken, it can create a false sense of security.
False Sense of Security #1: The Water Heater is in the Garage…Why worry?
The garage is a seemingly safe, out of the way location for a water heater, and for that reason many people wait until their water heater leaks before they replace it. But even in a garage, leaks can be a problem. Before putting your water heater on “ignore”, take time to survey the room. Since garages are often used as storage, anything of value that could be ruined by water should be properly secured. Most water heaters are placed on stands when installed in a garage. The water heater stand is designed to keep the gas burner 18-inches off of the floor (there are some code exceptions). Certain local codes may require this for electric water heaters too.
In order to maintain 18-inches of clearance, some home builders extend the higher sub-floor from an adjoining room above a crawlspace, just far enough into the garage to create a platform for the water heater and furnace. In this situation a leaking water heater could easily damage the wall and floor in that adjacent room. It is an unexpected consequence to see hardwood floors or wall damage inside a home caused by the water heater in the garage, yet I’ve seen it many times.
The other method of raising a water heater is to have it sitting on an independent stand. In this case leaking water is more likely to stay in the garage, but this doesn’t necessarily eliminate the possibility of damage. Some garages have drywall all the way down to the concrete floor and often the wall adjoins the rest of the house. In this scenario a leaking tank can still do quite a bit of damage. With enough time and/or enough water, a leaking water heater can lead to other unexpected repairs.
False Sense of Security #2: My water heater is in a pan…so all is well…right?
A pan is an excellent way to help prevent damage from a leaking water heater. However, there are some things to be aware of. Not all pans are equipped with a drain. Even with a drain, the pan is only designed to prevent a small amount of water from flooding. When a water heater leaks it can often start as a small enough trickle that a pan with a drain will keep up with the flow of water. But if this goes unnoticed, the leak can get to the point where the drain can no longer keep up. It is highly recommended that a water heater with a pan have an alarm device that will let you know when water is leaking into it. Bottom line, discovering water damage is not the ideal way to be alerted to a problem with your water heater.
Be Prepared
In an emergency you don’t want to feel trapped or out of options so in the event of a leak, it’s important that every able person knows how to turn off the water, gas, and/or electricity to your appliance. It also helps to know a good, reputable plumbing company you can rely on in case of an emergency ahead of time; one that’s available 24-hours a day, 365-days a year.
Conclusion
The location of a water heater is always a concern. Many are installed inside a living space and tucked away in a closet. Often a water heater (in a pan or not) is out of mind until someone notices water in the hallway, damp drywall, or a buckling floor outside the water heater closet. It doesn’t take much imagination to envision what could happen when one of these water heaters leaks. Installing every option to control leakage is important, but the best preventative measure is regular maintenance and inspection.
Bruce Davis Jr.
General Manager
Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
Bruce Davis Jr. is a second generation plumber and HVAC technician. He earned his Commercial Plumbing License and later became N.A.T.E. Certified and E.P.A. Refrigerant Certified for HVAC service and repair for commercial and residential HVAC appliances. Bruce has years of experience as an HVAC Technician, Boiler Technician, and Plumber. He is now General Manager for the company he has been with his entire career and oversees the Plumbing, Heating, and Air Conditioning business for Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
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Most of us take summer vacations expecting to leave our worries behind, not worry about what we left behind and undone. In this reprise of our “Vacation Checklist” article, we’ll share how to make your home safe and secure before you leave on vacation, and why it’s so important.
“Hello, this is Bruce Sr with Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating… did you call for a plumber?”
“YES!! I need help quick! I just went next door to check on my neighbor’s house (it turned out they were on vacation for a couple weeks), and there is WATER running out under the garage doors and the front door!!!
That was the beginning of one of the saddest Summer Vacation plumbing tragedies I’ve ever seen. It turned out that the hot hose to the washing machine had bubbled and broke, and had leaked for about 30-hours before anyone saw anything, dumping about 18,000 gallons.
The entire main floor was ‘threshold deep’ in water, and the downstairs daylight basement was about 4-inches deep. The entire downstairs ceiling was soaked and had fallen onto the carpet and new slate pool table, and their real parquet floor was now cute little ‘cupped’ squares, floating around the whole downstairs like a mini-fleet of wooden shoes.
Many of us have lists we double-check before leaving our homes for any length of time. Here’s the list I use when I go on vacation, (if no one is house-sitting), based on common sense and many years of seeing some pretty bad damage…
Give a trusted neighbor…
• A key. Don’t hide a key; they can always be found
• Their ‘Code’ for our Alarm System.
• Our Itinerary.
Stop…
• Mail.
• Paper.
Make sure the house looks normal from the outside, in regard to…
• Shades drawn?
• Car in driveway, or not.
• Lawn maintained etc.
Turn off / disconnect…
• The ringer on any land line phone. Message centers should have volume all the way down.
• Power to any small appliance; iron, toaster etc.
• Stove and oven.
• All wireless computer equipment; router, printers etc
• Power to water heater (circuit breaker or gas shut-off).
Shut off water supplies to…
• The washing machine. (Even the ‘braided stainless-steel’ lines pop apart sometimes.)
• The water heater. (Usually the valve on the right-side pipe, right above it.)
• Ice Maker. (It should have its own shut-off; hopefully under the kitchen sink, but if not it should be behind the refrigerator; you’ll have to pull it out. Yes, it’s worth it. )
• Dishwasher. (It should have its own shutoff under the sink.)
• Whole house… if you have cheap plastic shut-offs to fixtures (sinks, toilets), plastic risers or corrugated flexible risers to fixtures.
Double Check…
• All interior doors are as you want, (think of fire and alarm system issues).
• All exterior doors and windows are locked.
• All drapes and blinds are as you want.
• Automatic Garage Door is unplugged. (Remotes are easily defeated by crooks).
• Automatic Timers on lights; one per level minimum.
• All digital/computer equipment is as you want.
• Temperature on Heating/Cooling System. Do NOT turn off; adjust for median temp. If you turn it off, humid muggy air will promote mold in the summer, and too cold in the winter will allow pipes to freeze on the outer walls of the house.
• Refrigerator for food that will spoil
• Large freezer: that it’s plugged in and closed safe & sound.
• All garbage is emptied and taken out.
• Valuables, firearms etc, that they are locked away in a safe.
Then… lock the door on the way out…forget everything… and HAVE FUN!!!
Safety Beyond Vacation-Reviewing your vacation checklist is important before leaving the house for any length of time, but extensive water damage can occur even when you’re at home. A safety device is now available to help minimize and/or prevent water damage anytime. Installing an automatic shut-off valve will ensure that the water to your home or a specific fixture (such as a water heater or washing machine) is turned off as soon as one of the sensors comes in contact with water. Knowing you’re protected if there’s a water leak, even when you’re at work or asleep, is that extra peace of mind that every homeowner deserves.
Bruce Davis Sr.
Licensed Journeyman Plumber
Licensed Electrician, HVAC/R
Electrical Administrator, HVAC/R
Certified WA State C.E.U. Instructor
Bruce Sr is President of Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating,
a 60-year old family owned and operated plumbing and heating
business in Lynnwood, Washington.
Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating Inc.
16614 13th Ave. W.
Lynnwood, WA 98037
800-972-7000
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Not long ago I had a conversation with our local Electric Utility (PUD) about the causes of high energy usage in the home. I wanted to know what they look for when there is no obvious smoking gun. The following energy wasting culprits were at the top of their list:
- Anything that provides a form of heating or cooling; This could be an actual furnace or air conditioner… or other appliances such as a stove, dryer, water heater, refrigerator etc.
- Unintentional wastefulness such as leaking heating or cooling ducts into a crawl space.
Being in the Heating and Air Conditioning business, it was no surprise that the top two causes for excessive energy use on an abnormally high power bill were items directly related to our industry. It’s not uncommon that upgraded equipment and/or using the proper settings on a programmable thermostat, are recommended to homeowners as ways to improve energy efficiency and cut energy costs. But culprit number two was an eye-opener…the innocent little duct system that has been there ever since the home was built. Hardly any moving parts, nothing can go wrong with it, Right?
Energy usage (and how efficiently we use energy), has been our main focus for years when it comes to upgrading your equipment. Since the early 2000’s, the focus has broadened in the HVAC industry to include energy conservation, and one of our main areas of concern has been ducting system leakage
Before then, there were varying standards and requirements for sealing and insulating duct work, but not necessarily any standards for ducting when it came to upgrading an existing piece of equipment with newer equipment. For example, a home owner may intend to increase the energy efficiency of their heating system by replacing an 80% efficient furnace with a 96% efficient furnace. Though the efficiency will improve, the new equipment just inherited an old existing ducting system that may be very inefficient.
If 20% of the airflow is still leaking through bad ducting joints, holes by rodents, or badly fitted transitions, then 20% of what is being spent to heat or cool the home may not actually be conditioning the home at all, it’s simply wasted. Even if a piece of equipment is replaced with a more efficient version it will still waste 20%, but it will just waste the energy more efficiently. Leaking duct work can mean your furnace is wasting energy by heating or cooling a space not intended to be conditioned, such as a crawl space or attic. Often utility bills can be decreased simply by assuring that poor ducting is leak free. When looking to replace Heating or Air Conditioning equipment for energy cost improvements, a qualified HVAC Contractor should recommend a test of the ducting system.
Unfortunately, duct work is not a favorite topic among some heating contractors when they’re giving estimates. Just performing this test can sway some homeowners from replacing their equipment, to investing in their ducting. We’ve seen test results that vary from a loss greater than 50%, to as little as 2%…quite a wide range. Imagine paying your heating bill, when 50% of what you paid for isn’t being used to heat your home at all…a scary, wasteful, and expensive thought.
Ducting systems with leakage can also mean leakage in the “return” air ducting of the furnace. This is the air returning from the house to be heated (or cooled) by the furnace. When the furnace is sucking air back into itself through this return air ducting system, that portion of the ducting system is under negative pressure. Leaks in “return ducts” can mean they’re drawing air from the surrounding area, which can include unconditioned places full of dust and particulates like the crawlspace and attic. Not only does leaking duct work waste energy but it can also negatively affect indoor air quality (IAQ).
When looking to reduce your carbon foot print and reduce your home’s heating and cooling costs by lowering your energy usage, upgrading your equipment is a good investment…but it’s only one component of your HVAC system. Ducting, though out of sight, should not be kept out of mind. An efficient, leak-free ducting system can be a worthy contributor to reducing energy usage. Having a duct leakage test done to measure the integrity of the system will help you make an informed decision and could save you money. You might actually find that some simple repairs or proper duct sealing are all that are needed to increase your energy savings, and as a bonus, improve your indoor air quality.
Bruce Davis Jr.
General Manager
Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
Bruce is a second generation plumber and HVAC technician. He earned his Commercial Plumbing License and later became N.A.T.E. Certified and E.P.A. Refrigerant Certified for HVAC service and repair for commercial and residential HVAC appliances. Bruce has years of experience as an HVAC Technician, Boiler Technician, and Plumber. He is now General Manager for the company he has been with his entire career and oversees the Plumbing, Heating, and Air Conditioning business for Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
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The spring home show is over. It was our busiest since the recession hit. Of all the questions we were asked, one tops the list. Homeowners with electric baseboard or electric wall heaters wanted to know, “how do I lower my heating costs?”
When we answered, “Ductless Heat Pumps”, more questions followed. When should I consider a ductless heat pump? What do they do? How do they work?
In times past, a significant reduction in heating costs came with a price; a major upgrade requiring a whole new heating system, including duct work. As the name implies, Ductless Heat Pumps do not need ducts, and they run on electricity so they don’t need gas either. These two features alone solve the two major problems most homeowners with electric baseboard or wall heaters are faced with when looking for more efficient options; No gas to the house or neighborhood… and no ducting in the home.
Ductless heat pumps now begin to look like the ideal candidate for an efficiency upgrade. We typically tell home owners their electricity consumption can drop by up to 25%, but it is not uncommon to hear customers report back after installation that they’re only paying a third of what they use to before they added the ductless heat pump. In fact, at the home show we had several of our customers walk into our booth just to tell us that their savings exceeded their expectations, and how much they love the heat.
How are dramatic savings like this even possible? First of all, whether we’re talking about ductless heat pumps or conventional heat pumps for forced air duct work, the Pacific Northwest is an ideal climate. For most of the heating season the temperature doesn’t get so cold outside that heat pumps become inefficient or won’t work. Homes in this climate can utilize the efficiency of a heat pump with less heating time spent on an alternate back up heat.
Another reason heat pumps are less costly than electric baseboards or wall heaters is because they’re more efficient. It takes a lot less energy to simply move heat that already exists in the outside air to the inside of your home, than it does to power an electric heating element. In the summer the process is reversed. The Heat Pump moves heat from inside your home to the outside and voila!… You get low-cost air conditioning.
Depending on the ductless heat pump you choose, you can expect a typical unit to efficiently provide heat to the inside of your home down to about 15-degrees Fahrenheit. It may seem strange that there is heat in the air below freezing temperatures, but the reality is, when we measure temperature we aren’t measuring cold, we’re measuring heat. So 15-degrees is not a measurement of cold, it is a measurement of the heat that is present; heat that can be captured and used for heating our homes.
For homes in areas that see temperatures below working operation of the ductless heat pump it’s necessary to have a source of back up heat. Again, this just illustrates why homes with electric baseboards or in-wall heaters are ideal candidates for these types of systems. Your back up heat already exists in the form of your old electric heaters.
Though the units are unobtrusive and quiet, there are a couple of things to compare when getting estimates for a Ductless Heat Pump. Remember to look at the HSPF (Heating Seasonal Performance Factor ) rating and compare it with the other brands you’re getting estimates on. This rating is the efficiency of the unit when used in heating mode for one season. If heating is going to be your primary use for this unit, focus on HSPF.
If cooling is your primary use, then focus on the efficiency rating used for Air Conditioning, the SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) rating. Also compare the lowest outside temperature the unit will be able to operate at and still heat the home. Efficiencies and working outdoor air temperatures will vary depending on the brand and model.
Once you’ve have decided a ductless heat pump is ideal for you, find a good installation company with great customer service that can detail the efficiencies and installation of this unit. When we see problems with these units it is typically installation related. It never hurts to check them out online, and with the Better Business Bureau. Choose a company that will stand behind the product they install for you. Lastly, always get three estimates, or as many as needed until you find someone you’re comfortable with.
So to answer the question, “How do I lower my heating bill” I say, try a Ductless Heat Pump! They heat! And cool!
Bruce Davis Jr.
General Manager
Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
Bruce is a second generation plumber and HVAC technician. He earned his Commercial Plumbing License and later became N.A.T.E. Certified and E.P.A. Refrigerant Certified for HVAC service and repair for commercial and residential HVAC appliances. Bruce has years of experience as an HVAC Technician, Boiler Technician, and Plumber. He is now General Manager for the company he has been with his entire career and oversees the Plumbing, Heating, and Air Conditioning business for Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
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It’s your dream home. You make an offer. Offer accepted. You order an inspection. The inspection is done and all is well. Or is it? Home buyer inspections are the rule these days. Sometimes plumbers are called in to do a more thorough follow up inspection. Unfortunately, this often happens after the home has already been purchased.
Too many times we find that the homeowner didn’t know the existing condition of their plumbing system… and we end up being the bearer of bad news. Each home’s plumbing system can have its own issues and applications. Here are some common things a plumbing pro would look at before purchasing a home.
Recently we were called by a couple to unclog a main sewer line between their new home and the city sewer. After clearing the drain we used our sewer camera to inspect the line and determine the cause of the problem. The line was clearly deteriorating; some sections were only held together by the ground around them. Another clog was imminent. Even worse, the line could collapse requiring a major repair or replacement.
Although these homeowners didn’t feel lucky at the time, it was certainly good timing to camera the line prior to collapsing. The pipe was in good enough shape to reline before the problem got worse. Waiting just wasn’t an option. The line was 12-feet deep and went under a detached garage. At the least, it would have been a very costly option.
Drains clog for a reason, but it’s not always obvious. It is strongly recommended that a professional plumber perform a camera inspection on a main sewer line after it has clogged. If you’re purchasing a home, this is doubly important. Imagine in the above scenario knowing the condition of the line prior to the purchase of a home. You can’t always be certain whether the home has had drainage problems, and if so, whether the previous homeowner knew the reason for the clog. A simple camera inspection could make you aware of a hidden and very costly problem prior to the purchase.
The average water heater lasts about 10-years. This depends on the water quality, how the water heater is being used, maintenance, and installation. Water heaters that heat your home, in addition to providing hot water for each of your faucets, tend to have shorter lives.
Consider the location of the tank. Will it ruin your carpet or hard wood floor if it leaks? Will it cause dry wall damage? Is it in your garage on a platform that is really just an extension of a sub-floor, with nice flooring on the other side of the wall? In other words, how is this water heater being managed? If it’s in a location where property damage could occur, what will help prevent that?
It’s common to find water heaters placed in areas where they’re out of sight, yet could cause a lot of damage if they leak. (Utility closets, mobile home water heater closets, a garage against a finished living space) Even if it was sitting in a pan with a drain, who would ever see it… to know to fix a problem before it causes damage?
Water heater pans can only hold so much water before they overflow. Typically water heater leaks in these installations are noticed because of the evidence of water and/or the damage caused. Water heaters installed where they can cause property damage when they leak should be replaced as a preventive measure before they leak.
Nearly all manufactures can determine the age of a water heater from the model and serial number. Have a licensed plumber determine whether it’s up to current code and safely working. Ask the plumber to evaluate and document the size of the water heater when they’re out to perform the inspection, and whether it meets the needs of the home.
Sometimes a home with a soaking tub will have a water heater that’s undersized for that volume of water. Often the kids have moved, or the homeowner doesn’t use the tub any longer, and in order to save money, the water heater was replaced with a smaller unit. It’s always a good idea to find out if the tank is undersized for the home and your family’s needs.
One problem homeowners often neglect to have fixed is a leak at the base of a toilet. The leak often appears small or insignificant, but over time the water will begin to rot the sub-floor and even get between the sub-floor and the finished floor. Someone unaware of the damage this kind of problem can create, may try to seal this themselves, sometimes making it worse.
Here are some signs to look for: First, look for discoloration and/or warping around the base of the toilet. Second, check if the floor moves or feels soft around the base of the toilet by applying body weight with your foot. Finally, the toilet bowl should not have any movement. It should feel solid, and when grasped on either side, should not rock or slide. If movement is noted it either has a bad seal, the flange is not secured, or the toilet is not secured to the flange.
Conclusion
Buying a home is a big investment. Knowing if you have galvanized water pipes, copper drain pipes, lead closet bends, or an inferior piping system can be handy when negotiating the sale of a home. There are so many types of piping systems and conditions, it’s a good idea to get a whole house plumbing inspection in addition to a water heater and sewer camera inspection.
Plan to be there with the plumber and ask plenty of questions, i.e. “What would you do if you were buying this house?” That little bit extra you’ll spend on a minor maintenance and inspection, can go a long way towards knowing what you’re about to purchase, or whether it’s worth buying at all.
Bruce Davis Jr.
General Manager
Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
Bruce is a second generation plumber and HVAC technician. He earned his Commercial Plumbing License and later became N.A.T.E. Certified and E.P.A. Refrigerant Certified for HVAC service and repair for commercial and residential HVAC appliances. Bruce has years of experience as an HVAC Technician, Boiler Technician, and Plumber. He is now General Manager for the company he has been with his entire career and oversees the Plumbing, Heating, and Air Conditioning business for Day & Nite Plumbing & Heating, Inc.
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